First days teaching

I have finally started teaching! After being in Malawi for over three months, I have officially started my job at Dzenje community day secondary school teaching form 1 math and form 3 biology. The first classes consisted of me introducing myself, getting laughed at every single time I said my name (I asked why but I still don't understand why the name Ms. Germany is so hilarious), discussing the class rules and procedures, and answering questions about America. Here are a few of the questions I received:

How many children do you have? (0)

What are the major cash crops in America? (Ummm...)

Why does America have so many wars? (Wow ...because... politics?)

Do people in America eat nsima? (No)

Are there black people in America? (yes)

Why is America so famous? (Probably because of Michael Jordan )

I made up a lot of answers. 

The classes after the first day have not been much easier. The biggest challenge is that the students barely understand English. It's not as hard to teach the form 3 class, but in form 1 I have to talk very slowly, very loudly, and annunciate everything. And they still don't understand. We started a unit on sets and grouping, so I was giving examples of ways to group things. I said that we could group the class into boys and girls and asked all the students who would be in the girls group to raise their hands. I got blank stares. "Ok." I repeated it very slowly while gesturing wildly, "raise. your. hand. if. you. are. a. girl." Of the 50 girls that are in my class, 3 girls and 1 boy raised their hands. It's going to be a long term. But pang'ono pang'ono (little by little) they will better understand me and teaching will get easier. They are a great group of students and overall I'm really excited about my classes. 

School starts everyday at 7:30 and the day is broken up into nine 40 minute periods with two breaks. The first break is tea time! 😃 Tea and bread rolls are provided for us in the staff room. There are only 13 staff at the school. 11 regular teachers and the deputy and head teacher, both who also teach subjects. Unlike in American high schools, the students stay in the same classroom all day and the teachers switch between rooms when it is their period to teach. There are only four classrooms (one for each grade) and about 100 students in each class. I have a pretty easy schedule this term because I am new, so I only teach 11 periods a week. When I'm not teaching I hang out in the staff room and read or work on lesson plans. Even though my house is less than 20 feet from the classrooms and I could easily go home between periods, I like to sit in the staff room because I often talk to the other teachers and practice my Chichewa. I also get a lot of interesting questions from them about America. Today I was asked if I had ever heard of a place called McDonald's. So I explained about fast food restaurants and the types of food people eat in America. The entire staff was amazed. At least I'm teaching something. 

A Sunday. And a wedding!

5:30 I woke up, same time I do everyday, started a fire, cooked some oatmeal for breakfast and got ready for the day. 

8:00 left for church with my neighbor, Sarah, and my head teacher's family. They go to a Jehovah's Witness church where Sarah is a sign language interpreter for a deaf man that attends. Malawian sign language is very similar to ASL so between the little Chichewa I know, and the few signs I recognized, I was able to follow about half the service. The deaf man's name is Joseph and, since he also knows a little American Sign Language, I was able to talk to him for a while. I think the rest of the congregation was dumbfounded by the azungu (white person) signing, and I got a lot of stares. But by now I'm pretty used to that.  After church we went outside because Sarah wanted to take a picture with me. Others were watching us and, before I knew what was happening, a line had formed and I was taking a picture with almost every person there. I felt like a celebrity. Or a meet-and-greet Disney character. 

2:00 I attended my first ever wedding! Although I have never been to an American wedding, I believe I can safely say that this was not at all similar. It felt more like an outdoor concert or an all-village picnic. There was a makeshift stage set up in the middle of the primary school field and a huge crowd gathered around it. There was a mosh pit type set up where people danced in the middle of the crowd. More people were scattered, standing and sitting, throughout the field talking. There were the food vendors, who are usually at the market, selling water and snacks. On the stage, the bride and groom sat, while an MC played music and yelled into a mic. From what I gathered his main job was to collect money and people danced up to the stage to donated to the new couple. The MC announce each donation and the total amount received. The entire time I was there the bride and groom stayed sitting on the stage, watching the people in the crowd and looking thoroughly bored and unhappy. It made me wonder what the circumstances of the marriage were and whether they wanted the wedding at all.  The event started at 2:00 and I stayed for about 2 hours. At some point I was handed an adorable child named Eliza and I held her for a while. It is now almost 8 and I can still hear the celebration from my house in full swing, with no signs of wrapping up soon. The wedding was the first village event I have been to and it was really cool because, even though I still got stared at a lot, many people knew who I was and came up to greet me or talk. And all of them tried to get me to dance. Which I did not. 

5:30 my bed, which I ordered about a week ago, finally arrived! The carpenter just finished it today and rode it to my house on the back of his bike. I wish I had taken a picture because a twin sized bed strapped to the back of a bike is really an unusual sight. (But apparently not as unusual as a white person at a wedding). I'm really excited about not sleeping on the floor anymore! and now my room smells like fresh cut wood and sawdust, which I love :)

7:00 my head teacher's daughter came over to my house with a bag full of food containers. Her mother had cooked me dinner and sent me over a picnic of eggs, vegetables, and nsima. So I poured myself a glass of wine and had a lovely relaxing dinner by lamplight (because at this point it is dark and I have no electricity). 

7:45 I am now getting ready for bed and looking forward to my first day of school tomorrow! 

This is a plea for mail!

Hi all! Now that I'm settled into my new home in Mulanje I have a permanent address: 

Dzenje CDSS 

P.O Box 57 Mbiza Luchenza

Malawi, Central Africa

I will still receive mail sent to the peace corps PO box but the new address is probably more reliable and much faster. Please send me mail! And get all your friends to send me mail too! I want to hear from you and feel better connected to America. I get no contact with Americans on a daily basis and very little with English speakers, so any communication is extremely cherished and greatly appreciated. I cannot stress how special receiving a letter is to me here. If you'd rather avoid the post office (especially since international mail rates are ridiculous) send me an email. If you don't already have it my email address is rgermany03@gmail.com and I'm able to check it about once a week. If, however, you are interested in sending a care package, I will love you forever and here are a few suggestions of items I would like:

•Any American food!-don't worry mom, I'm eating well, but I really miss a lot of the American snacky stuff I can't get here

•granola bars

•dried fruit

•candy (specifically twizzlers or Swedish fish. If you know me you know how hard it's been with no twizzlers for almost 3 months! Lol)

•Mac and cheese packets

•cheese flavored anything or anything even resembling cheese. They don't have it here and it's my favorite/ staple food in America 

•water flavorers (i.e crystal light packets, Gatorade powder)

•pictures of your pretty face! I didn't bring enough and I miss seeing everyone

•entertainment such as sudoku or crossword books, magazines, small puzzles, etc. (I have a lot of free time)

Can't wait to hear from you!

P.S Aunt Fern and Uncle Andy: I've started hanging my cards on a string like you do in your office and they decorate my house :)

I'm an official PCV! (Swearing-in, 50th anniversary, and site)

I've made it to my house and I am currently sitting on my porch roasting ground nuts over a charcoal grill. But before I talk about my site and living on my own, I have a lot to catch up on from last week. 

Early Wednesday morning we said our goodbyes to our host families and left Kasungu to go to Lilongwe for a couple of crazy, exciting, sleepless days. My training group is very lucky because our swearing in ceremony fell at the same time as Peace Corps Malawi's 50th anniversary celebration. Most swear ins happen in the village with only the host families and PC staff attending, but since ours was in Lilongwe, every current volunteer in Malawi (about 120) was there to see it and we are the only group ever to get sworn in by the global Peace Corps director, Carrie Hessler-Radlet. There were a lot of speeches and two of my friends performed a rap they wrote. We raised our hands, repeated the same oath the president takes, and became official peace corps volunteers! Then we had cake and a VIP lunch. 

The next day was the celebration of peace corps working in Malawi for 50 years. This one took place at the state house (Malawi's White House) and was attended by the PC director, the US ambassador, John Kerry's daughter, president Joyce Banda, and many other political figures and important people. There was an entire marching band to play the national anthem when the president walked in. It was a big deal. There were more speeches, a delicious lunch, and dancing. Yes, I danced with the president of Malawi. 

That night we put together a talent show and sat in the grass and watched as people performed their various skills. A few people told jokes or stories, some sang, two people juggled, and one guy did flame throwing! (apparently he used to work in Hawaii) The celebrating continued when almost 100 of us went to a bar called Harry's and danced and hung out until late into the night.  It was certainly a warm welcome into the peace corps. After very, very little sleep we woke up the next morning and departed for our sites. 

I have now been living on my own in Mulanje for five days and so far it's going really well. It's been difficult trying to get everything I need to live though. I walked into a completely empty house and have had to collect all the essentials slowly. The first day I had  peanut butter sandwiches for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I've since been to the market and bought more food, buckets, pots, plates, towels, charcoal, etc etc. Mom- I got a huge bag of ground nuts as a going away gift from my family and I've been using my cast iron skillet to roast them with cinnamon and sugar the way we like :) I'm slowly getting my house set up. When I first got here I wasn't very happy with my house because its really small and strangely set up, but now I love it. It is two rooms but they aren't connected. The doors to both rooms face each other and you have to walk outside, under a covered porch, to go between the two. I usually just keep both doors open which gives the whole place a very open feeling and makes me feel like I'm living outdoors. I have a stool on my porch and most of the time I just sit outside reading or looking at my amazing view! My house is on the top of a hill so my porch overlooks a valley and mountains. I can see Mt. Mulanje as well as some mountains in Mozambique. I've met a lot of people in the village already and even made a few friends. It's weird not being with the rest of my group, but so far it hasn't been near as difficult as I thought it would be. 

Transport

Let me preface this post by saying: Mom, you might not want to read this one. I am going to write about transport in Malawi. 

My first experience with Malawi transport was actually about a month ago when the group was assigned to travel to a market about an hour from our village by whatever means possible. Being the competitive person that I am, me and some friends decided to treat it like The Amazing Race, and see what pair would arrive first. Some took mini buses, one pair rode in the back of a semi, me and my friend Susan hitched a ride with a very nice woman and her husband. I was hesitant about hitch hiking since its so dangerous in America but, as I would later figure out, hitching is probably the safest and most comfortable way to travel in this country.  We made it to the market, but not as the winners. 

The next time I travelled away from my village was last week to Mulanje and it was not near as fun or comfortable. The first leg of our journey we took a minibus from Kasungu to Lilongwe. These buses are built for 12 but consistently manage to fit 15-18. I sat in the very back row. The trunk didn't fully close and I could see the road through a hole rusted in the floor. Thankfully we made it to Lilongwe bus deport and in about two hours. Unthankfully, Lilongwe bus depot is probably in the top 10 worst places on earth. I'll get to that more later. From Lilongwe we took another, larger, bus which was possibly less comfortable than the first. There we 3 people to a row that should have sat 2, people standing in the aisle, and huge bags of supplies everywhere on the floor so you couldn't put your feet down. The bus was slow and it took us about 8 hours to get to our next stop in Blantyre. It didn't help that every couple of miles the bus would stop and screaming people would come up to the window and try to sell you food and random items. Some of the things make sense like the snacks and sodas, but other things like belts, mirrors, and machetes I would never buy out of a bus window. Once we finally got to Blantyre we stayed the night there and continued our journey in the morning. Two more minibuses took me to the Luchenza boma where I hopped in the back of a pickup truck and rode another hour on bumpy dirt "roads" to my town of Nantombozi. While the big buses drive incredibly slow, the minibuses and personal cars drive alternativley fast. Also, nobody follows the road rules here, if there even are any. Cars dont stay on their side of the road and just drive down the center, speed limits dont seem to exist, and I haven't seen a stoplight since I got here. Anyways, from Nantombozi it's still two miles to my house so you can either walk or take a bike taxi. The bike taxis are everywhere and it involves sitting on a padded square cushion behind the regular bike seat while a man peddles you wherever you need to go. Usually they're not too bad but this particular trip we were traveling in the cold miserable rain through muddy roads. After two days of travel, I made it to my house. Finally! 

The trip back to Kasungu was much of the same. Crowded buses, long rides, and yelling people. On one of the buses there was a evangelical preacher standing in the aisle, shouting and reading scripture in Chichewa for about 40 minutes. Then we got back to Lilongwe.

 If you come visit me in Malawi don't ever go to the Lilongwe bus deport. When i say bus depot you may think of a big paved parking lot with a bunch of buses in parking spots and maybe a waiting building where you by bus tickets. It's nothing like that. It is a large dirt field with buses everywhere in no particular order and with no organization. Hundreds of people are also walking everywhere in front of buses and pushing people around to get where they're going As we pulled up in our large charter style bus we had to maneuver through the dirt lot on trying not to hit people. As soon as we stopped people were already trying to push their way on the bus before we even got off so they could get a seat. Many people threw their stuff in through the windows to save a seat. I saw one person throw their child in through the window. Since all these people are pushing to get on, it makes it near impossible to get off. Crowd surfing would have been the best option. Instead I had to push through a crowd of about 50 people trying to keep all my stuff with me. Once you make it through all that, people start yelling at you trying to sell you things and grabbing your bags to try to get you to ride on their bus. I had to fight through the maze of people and buses to try to find the one I needed to be on. Luckily I made it back to Kasungu alive and on time. So that is a summary of travel in Malawi and why I will rarely be leaving my site. 

Cooking (poor Ted)

I'm a little worried about cooking for myself once I get to site. Don't worry Mom, I'll manage, but I'm a bad enough cook in America where I had electricity, running water, and an unlimited supply of ingredients. The other day we had a cooking class about how to cook simple and nutritious meals with the limited supplies available. We were given about 10 staple ingredients (rice, tomatoes, eggs, bread, etc) and had to create as many dishes with them as possible. My group attempted fried rice, tomato soup, and French toast. The French toast turned out pretty well. We also learned how to kill and cook a chicken. Each group got their own live chicken to kill and include in their meal. We named our chicken Ted, then cooked him into our fried rice. I've heard the expression "running around like a chicken with its head cut off" and now I can also say I've seen it in action. Once I get to site I think I'll try to avoid any more chicken murders. Thankfully we were given a cookbook compiled by past volunteers, so hopefully I won't starve. 

Site visit

Sorry that I have been majorly slacking on writing on here. I have a lot of catching up to do. 

First of all, I'm moving to Mulanje! (Which I realize most of you already know) It is home to jungle, tons of fruit, tea, the tallest mountain in central Africa, and Dzenje CDSS, the school where I'll be teaching for the next 2 years. Last week I went on a site visit to check out my house, school, and village. Transport from my host village in kasungu to Mulanje took two days and was a horrible, terrifying, uncomfortable journey. I'll have to write a whole post about travel in Malawi another time. I went with the headmaster of my school and stayed with him and his family for the four days I was there. The weather was rainy and cold, but my district is absolutely beautiful! It is in the jungle, surrounded by mountains and tea fields. Everything is green and there are tropical plants and flowers growing everywhere. Imagine a scene from Tarzan an that is what it looks like where I'll be living. My house is inside the school gates and surrounded by classroom buildings. I'll definitely have to build a fence to separate my yard from the school grounds. The house is very small, only two rooms and a storage closet, with a separate kitchen and bath being constructed out back, hopefully to be finished by the time I move in. I don't have electricity or water but my school has solar so I can use theirs to charge stuff. Although my house is small, and definitely lacking in amenities, it is made up for by its location. The surroundings are amazing and my house overlooks fields and mountains, with a view of Mt. Mulanje from my backyard. Definitely a change from the Florida beaches I'm used to. 

 I am now back in kasungu, with only two more weeks of home stay before I move away on my own. I am looking forward to being independent and finally starting my service as an official PCV, but I will definitely miss kasungu, seeing my friends everyday, and especially my family.